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The War Garden Victorious - Appendix 1
Victory Edition 1919 WAR GARDENING and Home Storage of Vegetables





How the National War Garden Commission Came into Being


The Story of the War Garden


How War Gardens Helped


Types of War Gardens


Uncle Sam's First War Garden


How Big Business Helped


How the Railroads Helped


The Army of School Gardeners


Community Gardening


Cooperation in Gardening


War Gardens as City Assets


The Part Played by Daylight Saving


The Future of War Gardening


Conserving the Garden Surplus


Community Conservation


Conservation by Drying


Why We Should Use Dried Foods


The Future of Dehydration


Cooperation of the Press
  Chapter 19 - Cartoon Illustrations


  "War Gardening,"
Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

  "Home Canning and Drying," Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

Color Plates

  Sow the Seeds of Victory - Every Garden a Munition PlantWILL YOU HAVE A PART IN VICTORY?

"Every Garden a Munition Plant"

James Montgomery Flagg

  War Garden Victorious Poster - War Gardens Over The TopA Poster Spreading the Idea of Militant War Gardens

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Every Garden a Peace PlantA Poster for 1919, Symbolic of Victory

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Can Vegetables, Fruits and the Kaiser tooCAN VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND THE KAISER TOO

J. Paul Verrees

A Poster Which Was Used in 1918, and Which, Amended–Following Germany's Defeat–Was Also Forceful in 1919



  We can can vegetables, fruti and the Kaiser too We can can Vegetables Fruit and the Kaiser too



page 7



     For early planting a hotbed may be made, located in a sheltered spot with southern exposure, where it will receive a generous supply of sun. A width of 6 feet is desirable, and the length should be such as will enable the use of standard 3 by 6 foot hotbed sash. A simple, boxlike frame, 12 inches high in the rear and 8 inches high in front, will hold the sash and give a better angle for the rays of the sun.
     Dig a pit 1-1/2 to 2 feet deep, the size of the sash frame to be used. Line the sides of this with boards or planks, brick or concrete, and make a tile drain, or place stones on the bottom of the pit, to carry off surplus water. This pit is to be filled with fresh horse manure. The manure will require special treatment before being placed in the pit. It should be thrown into a pile and allowed to heat. When it has heated and is steaming fork it over into a new pile, throwing the outside material into the center. When the new pile has become well heated fork the material once more into a new pile. This will require from ten days to two weeks and is important in that it gets rid of excessive heat. After this process fill the pit with the manure, packed down firmly and evenly, level with the surface of the surrounding earth. On top of this manure make a covering of good garden loam 3 or 4 inches deep.
     When the sash has been put in place the manure will generate heat, in addition to the heat that will be derived from the sun. After this heat has reached its highest point and dropped back to between 80 and 90 degrees F. the seed should be planted. Use the best seed obtainable. Until the seed germinate the hotbed should be kept shaded to hold moisture. This can be done by spreading over the sash strips of old carpet, heavy cloth or newspapers. After germination strong light will be needed. The plants must be watered each morning of clear days, and the sash left partially open for ventilation, as it is necessary to dry the foliage to prevent mildew.
     Proper ventilation is essential to the production of strong, healthy plants. The sash should be raised during the warmest part of the day on the side opposite the direction from which the wind is blowing.

By opening it in this way instead of facing the wind, the hotbed receives fresh air without receiving direct draft. On cold days raise the sash slightly three or four times a day for a few minutes only. In severe weather cover the beds with mats, straw or manure to keep in as much heat as possible. About two weeks before transplanting time the sash should be removed during the day to "harden" the plants. While in the hotbed the plants should be thoroughly watered, but the water should not reach the manure underneath. Early morning is the best time for watering, so that the plants will be dried before night.
     An outdoor hotbed of this character should be started in the early spring––February or March.


     A cold frame is useful for hardening plants which have been started in the hotbed. It is built like a hotbed, but without the pit or manure. It is built on the surface of the ground. Good, rich soil should be used and the soil kept slightly moist. In mild climates the cold frame may be used instead of a hotbed for starting plants. It is also used in the fall and early winter for growing lettuce, radishes, carrots, parsley, etc.


     Not many implements are required for home gardening. The 3essentials are a spade or a garden fork, a hoe, a rake with steel teeth, a trowel, a dibble or pointed stick, and a line such as is used by masons, or a piece of common string or cord, to stretch between two stakes for marking of rows. In the case of hard packed earth a pick is useful for digging. For watering, a rubber hose is needed where pipe connections are available. Lacking this equipment a watering pot should be provided. A hand cultivator or wheel hoe is useful, especially in a large garden, and saves much time and labor in turning small furrows. With simple attachments it is used for stirring the soil and the removal of weeks.


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