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The War Garden Victorious - Appendix 1
Victory Edition 1919 WAR GARDENING and Home Storage of Vegetables





How the National War Garden Commission Came into Being


The Story of the War Garden


How War Gardens Helped


Types of War Gardens


Uncle Sam's First War Garden


How Big Business Helped


How the Railroads Helped


The Army of School Gardeners


Community Gardening


Cooperation in Gardening


War Gardens as City Assets


The Part Played by Daylight Saving


The Future of War Gardening


Conserving the Garden Surplus


Community Conservation


Conservation by Drying


Why We Should Use Dried Foods


The Future of Dehydration


Cooperation of the Press
  Chapter 19 - Cartoon Illustrations


  "War Gardening,"
Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

  "Home Canning and Drying," Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

Color Plates

  Sow the Seeds of Victory - Every Garden a Munition PlantWILL YOU HAVE A PART IN VICTORY?

"Every Garden a Munition Plant"

James Montgomery Flagg

  War Garden Victorious Poster - War Gardens Over The TopA Poster Spreading the Idea of Militant War Gardens

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Every Garden a Peace PlantA Poster for 1919, Symbolic of Victory

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Can Vegetables, Fruits and the Kaiser tooCAN VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND THE KAISER TOO

J. Paul Verrees

A Poster Which Was Used in 1918, and Which, Amended–Following Germany's Defeat–Was Also Forceful in 1919



  We can can vegetables, fruti and the Kaiser too We can can Vegetables Fruit and the Kaiser too



page 6


Compost (continued from page 5)    

 Destroy all plants which are diseased. The compost pile should be built up in alternate layers of vegetable refuse a foot thick and earth an inch or more thick. The earth helps to rot the vegetable matter when mixed with it. The top of the pile should be left flat that the rain may enter and help in the process of decay.
     If the pile can be forked over once a month when not frozen and the contents well mixed together, they will decay quite rapidly and be in good usable condition in the spring. The compost may be either spread over hte garden and plowed under or it may be scattered in the rows before the seed are sown. This is, of course, not as rich as stable manure, but it is a good substitute.
     Compost is also used as a top dressing during the growing season for hastening growth.
     In the cities and towns tons of leaves are burned every fall. This is a loss which ought to be prevented. These leaves properly composted with other vegetable waste and earth would be worth hundreds of dollars to the gardens next spring.
     In planning a permanent garden, a space should be reserved near the hotbed or seed bed, and in this space should be piled, as soon as pulled, all plants which are free from diseases and insects. This applies to all vegetables and especially to peas and beans, as these belong to a group of plants which take nitrogen from the air, during growth, and and store it in their roots. When these plants are decayed they will return to the soil not only much of the plant food taken from it during their growth but additional nitrogen as well. Nitrogen in the soil is necessary for satisfactory leaf growth. The material so composted should be allowed to decay throughout the winter, and when needed should be used according to the instructions given for using compost. The sweepings of pigeon lofts or chicken coops make valuable fertilizer. When cleaning roosts from day to day add 1/4 as much acid phosphate as sweepings. When needed apply 1 pound of this mixture to every 5 square feet of ground, mixing it thoroughly into the soil.

     Prepared sheep manure, where procurable at a reasonable price, is possibly the safest concentrated fertilizer. It should be used in small quantities rather than spread broadcast. Scatter it along the row before seed is sown or apply by mixing it with water in a pail, stirring the mixture to the consistency of thin mush, and pouring it along the rows of the plants.

     Green Manure

     Green manure is useful as a fertilizer. It consists of green plants turned under by plowing or spading. Rye is the most satisfactory for this purpose. If planted in July or August the crop may be turned under in the fall if early spring planting is desired. If planted later, it is usually turned under in the spring. When not turned under until spring, the growth will prevent the leaching of soluble plant food or the washing away of rich soil.
     In sowing rye for this purpose, use at the rate of 1 pound of seed to a strip of ground 50 feet long and 10 feet wide. If the ground is rough or hard it should be cultivated just before the seed is sown, and then cultivated again to cover the seed. Sow the seed between the rows of crops not yet gathered. Rye is very hardy and will sprout even though there is frost nearly every night. At a cost of about 5 cents for a pound of seed a garden of 10 by 50 feet can thus be treated to an application of green manure. The green rye plants soon decay when turned under and answer the same purpose as a light dressing of manure.
     Green manure, however, should not be relied upon to do the work of stable manure, as it does not provide phosphorus or potassium.


     Land which has long been unused, or land in lawns, is apt to be sour. To remedy this condition apply evenly 1 pound of air-slaked lime or 2 pounds of ground limestone to every 30 square feet. The lime should be applied and raked in to a depth of 2 inches when the seed bed is being prepared in the spring. Instead of lime 2 pounds of unleached wood ashes may be used. Do not apply lime at the same time as manure or mixed fertilizers, as it will cause loss of nitrogen.
     As an addition to soil lime is of considerable value. Besides correcting acidity it changes the physical structure of the sol. One of the elements of lime is calcium, which is required for plant growth.

Fig. 3––Tools most commonly needed in a small garden. From left to right, between the balls of cord, they are: Trowel, weeder, spade, steel toothed rake, hoe, garden fork, watering pot and dibble.

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