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The War Garden Victorious - Appendix 1
Victory Edition 1919 WAR GARDENING and Home Storage of Vegetables





How the National War Garden Commission Came into Being


The Story of the War Garden


How War Gardens Helped


Types of War Gardens


Uncle Sam's First War Garden


How Big Business Helped


How the Railroads Helped


The Army of School Gardeners


Community Gardening


Cooperation in Gardening


War Gardens as City Assets


The Part Played by Daylight Saving


The Future of War Gardening


Conserving the Garden Surplus


Community Conservation


Conservation by Drying


Why We Should Use Dried Foods


The Future of Dehydration


Cooperation of the Press
  Chapter 19 - Cartoon Illustrations


  "War Gardening,"
Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

  "Home Canning and Drying," Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

Color Plates

  Sow the Seeds of Victory - Every Garden a Munition PlantWILL YOU HAVE A PART IN VICTORY?

"Every Garden a Munition Plant"

James Montgomery Flagg

  War Garden Victorious Poster - War Gardens Over The TopA Poster Spreading the Idea of Militant War Gardens

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Every Garden a Peace PlantA Poster for 1919, Symbolic of Victory

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Can Vegetables, Fruits and the Kaiser tooCAN VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND THE KAISER TOO

J. Paul Verrees

A Poster Which Was Used in 1918, and Which, Amended–Following Germany's Defeat–Was Also Forceful in 1919



  We can can vegetables, fruti and the Kaiser too We can can Vegetables Fruit and the Kaiser too



page 5



     The back yard gardener must use the soil he has, but he can improve it if it is poor, and he must do this as far as possible. Stable manure will help even the richest soil, and you are not likely to use too much of it. During a single season professional gardeners apply as much as six inches of it. From 400 to 600 pounds can be used to advantage on a plot 20 by 20 feet. Coarse manure should be applied and thoroughly plowed or spaded under in the fall. In the spring, fine, rotted manure is applied, just before plowing or spading, preceding the planting of any crop. If the ground is fairly rich, and well-rotted manure is scarce, the manure may be scattered in the row only, and should be mixed into the soil before the planting of seed.
     Loam is the best garden soil. Sand, with manure, gives good results. Clay is hardest to work, but is greatly improved by well-rotted manure and vegetable matter––called humus. These should be well worked in with hoe and rake. Sifted coal ashes, entirely free from clinkers, will help loosen up clay when mixed into it, but will not remove an acid condition nor increase fertility.

Commercial Fertilizer*

     Many gardeners experience difficulty in obtaining supplies of well-rotted manure. In such cases commercial fertilizers should be used. Even where stable manure has been secured and worked into the soil it is well to supplement with moderate quantities of quick-acting fertilizer in order to give plants an early start and hasten maturity.
     It is safest to rely upon the ready-mixed fertilizers usually obtainable at seed and hardware stores. Several specially prepared mixtures in convenient packages are now on the market. For large areas, 100 to 200 pound bags may be obtained. A mixture containing 3 to 4 per cent nitrogen and 8 to 10 per cent phosphoric acid is about right for the average garden. Your dealer will inform you on this point. If the fertilizer also contains potash, so much the better, but this year potash is scarce and high in price.

* [ed. note] earthly pursuits encourages the use of organic, not chemical, fertilizers.

Where no manure is used the fertilizer should be spread over the surface of the finely prepared seed-bed at the rate of 5 pounds for a plot 10 feet square, just before planting. The surface soil should then be thoroughly raked so as to mix the fertilizer evenly to a depth of 2 inches. Never place seed or transplanted plants in direct contact with fertilizer. Thorough mixing of the fertilizer with the soil is essential to prevent injury of seed or roots.

drawing of outdoor cold frame

Fig. 2––This shows the construction of an outdoor cold frame. A hotbed is built in the same way, except that for the hotbed a pit and manure are required. See page 7 for directions for making cold frames and hotbeds.

     Where manure has been worked into the soil, reduce the fertilizer application approximately one-half.
     Tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, spinach and some other crops requiring rather long growing seasons, are materially benefited by a second application of fertilizer when half grown. Side dressings of this kind should be scattered between the rows at the rate of four ounces (one-half pint) to 10 feet of row, when rows are spaced 2 feet apart; and pro rata for rows spaced a greater or lesser distance. To insure even distribution mix the fertilizer with fine, dry earth just before spreading.


     Compost is especially desirable when quick growth is wanted. Compost is thoroughly rotted manure or organic material. It is prepared from six to twelve months before being used, by putting the manure and other material in piles having perpendicular sides and flat tops. These piles are usually from 2 to 4 feet high and 6 to 8 feet long.
     Besides the usual waste of garden rubbish, there is a large waste of leaves, weeds and the skins and other unused portions of fruits and vegetables. These should all be thrown on the compost pile to decay for use on the garden next spring. (continued on page 6)

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