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The War Garden Victorious - Appendix 1
Victory Edition 1919 WAR GARDENING and Home Storage of Vegetables


CONTENTS

 

Title

I.

How the National War Garden Commission Came into Being

II.

The Story of the War Garden

III.

How War Gardens Helped

IV.

Types of War Gardens

V.

Uncle Sam's First War Garden

VI.

How Big Business Helped

VII.

How the Railroads Helped

VIII.

The Army of School Gardeners

IX.

Community Gardening

X.

Cooperation in Gardening

XI.

War Gardens as City Assets

XII.

The Part Played by Daylight Saving

XIII.

The Future of War Gardening

XIV.

Conserving the Garden Surplus

XV.

Community Conservation

XVI.

Conservation by Drying

XVII.

Why We Should Use Dried Foods

XVIII.

The Future of Dehydration

XIX.

Cooperation of the Press
  Chapter 19 - Cartoon Illustrations
   
 

APPENDIX

  "War Gardening,"
Victory Edition, 1919
INDEX
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

 
  "Home Canning and Drying," Victory Edition, 1919
INDEX
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back
 
 


Color Plates

  Sow the Seeds of Victory - Every Garden a Munition PlantWILL YOU HAVE A PART IN VICTORY?

"Every Garden a Munition Plant"

James Montgomery Flagg


  War Garden Victorious Poster - War Gardens Over The TopA Poster Spreading the Idea of Militant War Gardens

Maginel Wright Enright


  War Garden Victorious Poster - Every Garden a Peace PlantA Poster for 1919, Symbolic of Victory

Maginel Wright Enright


  War Garden Victorious Poster - Can Vegetables, Fruits and the Kaiser tooCAN VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND THE KAISER TOO

J. Paul Verrees

A Poster Which Was Used in 1918, and Which, Amended–Following Germany's Defeat–Was Also Forceful in 1919

   
 

OTHER POSTERS

  We can can vegetables, fruti and the Kaiser too We can can Vegetables Fruit and the Kaiser too

 

 

page 28

     Dry beans may be stored in cloth bags in a pantry or in any cool, dry and well ventilated room. The bags should be hung away from the floor to prevent damage by rats and mice.
     Onions require a cool, dry place. They should be cured by being exposed to the air for a few days in the shade. The tops should be removed before storing. Keep them in baskets, trays or other holders which let the air circulate. Onions are not damaged by temperatures slightly below freezing, and for storing them the attic is better than the cellar. If stored in the cellar they should be suspended from the ceiling.
     Squashes are susceptible to cold and moisture, and for that reason should be stored in a dry place where the temperature will be between 50 and 60 degrees F. Squashes may be kept by placing them in a single layer on a dry floor and covering with rugs or carpets, but care must be taken that the stems are not broken off and that they do not become bruised before storing. Whenever it is found that any of the squashes or pumpkins are showing signs of decay, the sound portions should be canned.
     Tomatoes may be saved by pulling up the entire plant before freezing weather. The vines should be suspended by the roots in a cool cellar. The tomatoes will gradually ripen. If these tomatoes, when cooked, are found to be acid, the acidity can be overcome by using baking soda.
     Parsley may be saved by transplanting into flower pots late in the fall. These should be kept in windows where they will receive sunshine.
     Parsnips and salsify are not injured by remaining in the ground all winter. Enough for immediate needs may be dug in the fall and the others harvested as required.

drawing of potatoes in outdoor mound

Fig. 5*––Irish potatoes in an outdoor mound. This mound must be in a well-drained location. After removing 2 or 3 inches of earth, pile the potatoes on a 2 or 3-inch layer of dry straw, leaves or hay. Cover the vegetables with 2 or 3 inches of straw, leaves or hay, and cover this with 3 or 4 inches of earth. Increase the thickness of the earth layer as severe weather approaches, making it as much as 12 inches in extremely cold climates. Manure or corn stalks should be piled over the mound. The straw, coming to the top, will afford ventilation. The opening should be covered fro protection from rain.

POTATOES

     As one of the staple vegetables, potatoes are entitled to special consideration for winter storage. If you have raised a surplus crop in your own garden save as many as possible for your winter's supply. If you have none of your own raising it is well to buy them early in the fall, at the time of greatest supply and lowest prices, and store them for the winter, making yourself independent of the market during the time of highest prices.
     Potatoes may be stored in cellars, pits and outdoor cellars, as already described. Before they are stored they should be allowed to dry. This is done by digging them on bright days, if possible, and allowing them to lie alongside the rows for a few hours. Before storing sort them carefully as to size and soundness. The smaller potatoes and those which show signs of threatened decay should not be stored, but should be used early.
     The success of potato storage depends on the exclusion of light, proper ventilation, the proper amount of moisture, the size of the pile or container and the type of the tubers stored.
     In storing potatoes it should be remembered that the purpose is to protect them from great changes of temperature and from light. Even a small amount of light changes the food value of potatoes. There should be enough moisture to keep the potatoes from wilting, but not enough to cause moisture to gather on the surface.
     If potatoes are stored in a place where there is moisture in the air, provision should be made to permit free circulation of air through the containers. Barrels, boxes and bins may be ventilated by boring holes in sides and bottoms. Barrels, boxes and crates should be set on slats to hold them off the floor and allow the air to circulate underneath. If the storage place is light a blanket, several thicknesses of paper, or old sacks should be placed on top of the containers. If the air of the storage place is dry, it should not be allowed to circulate freely through the containers, as dry air will cause withering of the potatoes. In such storage places the potatoes should be put in containers made airtight by lining bottom and sides with several thicknesses of newspaper and covering the top snugly in the same manner.
     The temperature of a cellar storage room for potatoes should be carefully controlled to prevent wide fluctuations. A constant temperature around 30 degrees F. is desirable. It should not be allowed to go below 32 degrees or above 50 degrees.
     Potatoes should not be washed before storage. If they begin sprouting in the spring all the shoots should be rubbed off. The bins should be examined occasionally and any rotting potatoes removed to prevent the spread of infection

Bins

     Do not have one large bin for potatoes, as those in the center will be subjected to too high temperature, which will cause all of them to go through a sweating process. Too large a bin makes good ventilation impossible. Open bins, not more than a foot deep, arranged as a shelf, as shown in Fig. 3, are excellent for cellar storage. Another good arrangement of shelf storage for certain crops is shown in Fig. 4.

Pits

     A small pit provided with ventilation, as shown in Fig. 5, is the most satisfactory. It is better to have several small pits than one large one, as the entire contents must be removed when a pit is opened. Place not more than two to six weeks' supply in a single pit..

*moved here from page 27

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