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The War Garden Victorious - Appendix 1
Victory Edition 1919 WAR GARDENING and Home Storage of Vegetables





How the National War Garden Commission Came into Being


The Story of the War Garden


How War Gardens Helped


Types of War Gardens


Uncle Sam's First War Garden


How Big Business Helped


How the Railroads Helped


The Army of School Gardeners


Community Gardening


Cooperation in Gardening


War Gardens as City Assets


The Part Played by Daylight Saving


The Future of War Gardening


Conserving the Garden Surplus


Community Conservation


Conservation by Drying


Why We Should Use Dried Foods


The Future of Dehydration


Cooperation of the Press
  Chapter 19 - Cartoon Illustrations


  "War Gardening,"
Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

  "Home Canning and Drying," Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

Color Plates

  Sow the Seeds of Victory - Every Garden a Munition PlantWILL YOU HAVE A PART IN VICTORY?

"Every Garden a Munition Plant"

James Montgomery Flagg

  War Garden Victorious Poster - War Gardens Over The TopA Poster Spreading the Idea of Militant War Gardens

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Every Garden a Peace PlantA Poster for 1919, Symbolic of Victory

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Can Vegetables, Fruits and the Kaiser tooCAN VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND THE KAISER TOO

J. Paul Verrees

A Poster Which Was Used in 1918, and Which, Amended–Following Germany's Defeat–Was Also Forceful in 1919



  We can can vegetables, fruti and the Kaiser too We can can Vegetables Fruit and the Kaiser too



page 19

editor's note

Pages 17-22 of this booklet deal with disease and insect prevention.

earthly pursuits recommends natural and organic disease and pest control. I have included the sections of the booklet that offer safe solutions and have omitted the sections that advocate chemical/toxic solutions. I have also listed several  resources for more information on natural, organic Integrated Pest Management. please see page 17 for some links to alternative methods of disease and insect control.

I apologize for not including the pages as part of this historical document but I cannot in good conscience publish methods so totally against my beliefs.



Some Other Forms of Protection

     One form of protection against cutworms is a collar 2 inches wide made of stiff paper, placed around the stem of the plant and with its lower edge inserted in the ground, to prevent the pests from reaching both stem and upper part of root.
     Small frames covered with mosquito netting or cheesecloth set over young plants will protect them.


     An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure in the matter of controlling diseases and insects. Clean garden soil aids in keeping out insects and disease. All plants purchased should be healthy and free from disease. The roots should not be swollen or knotted. Treat Irish potatoes for scab before planting. Do not plant cabbage having clubroot or sweet potatoes affected with black-rot.
     Many insects carry disease and spores from one plant to another as well as attacking the crops directly.
     Avoid wounding or bruising plants and vegetables when cultivating and harvesting them, to prevent certain insects from gaining access to them.
     Have order, neatness and cleanliness in the garden. In the fall turn under promptly, all vegetation so that insects and disease spores may not find winter quarters. Keep down all weeds, as a great many insects feed naturally upon them. All diseased plants which remain at the end of the season should be burned, as should all rubbish which is of such character that i will not decay and is therefore not useful in making compost. This includes trash, sticks and the like. It may seem like a waste of vegetable matter to burn the dead tomato vines, bean vines and other plant tops which have been diseased, but this should be done because to save or compost these for fertilizer would simply be maturing and saving millions of disease spores which would be on hand ready to attack the crops next year. More than this, a clean garden appeals to the eye and to the pride of the owner as a winter landscape.
     Corn stalks, cabbage leaves and stumps, beet tops if not canned, and other healthy plants should be saved for mulching or be added to the compost heap.
     The remnants of vegetable matter, which are not infected with disease or insects, should be made into compost heaps for the coming year and covered with stable manure and dirt to hasten decay, as decayed vegetable matter enriches the soil. (Directions for making a compost heap are given on page 5). Plowing or deep spading in the fall is important, as it breaks up the winter homes of underground insect pests. Rotation of crops also lessens the danger of attacks from insects and diseases.



     Too much emphasis cannot be placed on the need for taking precautions against diseases and insects. Familiarize yourself with such diseases and insects as prevail in your neighborhood on the crops you plan to raise. Then provide yourself in advance with remedies and equipment. Watch carefully for first signs of trouble and apply remedies at once. Inspect your garden every two or three days.

* [ed. note] see Mulch, Intensive and Lazy Gardening Books for alternative methods of preparing the soil and planting.

"Carrots Love Tomatoes" is a good reference for companion planting - which plants like to be planted closer to each other and which ones do not like each other.

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