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The War Garden Victorious - Appendix 1
Victory Edition 1919 WAR GARDENING and Home Storage of Vegetables





How the National War Garden Commission Came into Being


The Story of the War Garden


How War Gardens Helped


Types of War Gardens


Uncle Sam's First War Garden


How Big Business Helped


How the Railroads Helped


The Army of School Gardeners


Community Gardening


Cooperation in Gardening


War Gardens as City Assets


The Part Played by Daylight Saving


The Future of War Gardening


Conserving the Garden Surplus


Community Conservation


Conservation by Drying


Why We Should Use Dried Foods


The Future of Dehydration


Cooperation of the Press
  Chapter 19 - Cartoon Illustrations


  "War Gardening,"
Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

  "Home Canning and Drying," Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

Color Plates

  Sow the Seeds of Victory - Every Garden a Munition PlantWILL YOU HAVE A PART IN VICTORY?

"Every Garden a Munition Plant"

James Montgomery Flagg

  War Garden Victorious Poster - War Gardens Over The TopA Poster Spreading the Idea of Militant War Gardens

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Every Garden a Peace PlantA Poster for 1919, Symbolic of Victory

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Can Vegetables, Fruits and the Kaiser tooCAN VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND THE KAISER TOO

J. Paul Verrees

A Poster Which Was Used in 1918, and Which, Amended–Following Germany's Defeat–Was Also Forceful in 1919



  We can can vegetables, fruti and the Kaiser too We can can Vegetables Fruit and the Kaiser too



page 16*


     Tomatoes form one of the favorite crops of the home garden, as they will grow in all types of soil. Sandy loam, with plenty of humus, is ideal for growing tomatoes.
     If plants are grown in seed flats, hotbeds or cold frames, follow the directions for transplanting given on pages 9 and 10. Plants suitable for setting out should be 4-6 inches high, having a thick stem and dark green leaves. Begin cultivation as soon as the plants are set. Cultivate deeply and close to plants at first but later cultivation should be more shallow to prevent injury to roots. Cultivate frequently to keep the soil loose over the surface, so preventing evaporation. Always cultivate after a rain.
     When preparing seed flats, hotbeds, or cold frames for tomato seed, use soil which has never grown tomatoes. This insures plants free from disease. It is not advisable to plant tomatoes on land which has been planted the previous year with white potatoes, melons or tomatoes. To plant on such soil increases the danger from disease and pest.
     It is always advisable to train the plants to stakes or other supports. They may be trained on wires or on poultry wire fastened on posts set about fifteen feet apart in rows. Barrel hoops a foot apart fastened to stakes eighteen inches apart are some times used. To tie plant to support, loop the string around the support and tie it under a leaf stem. Remove all side branches at the axil of the leaves as soon as they appear. Do not remove flower clusters. When the plant has reached a height of 5 feet cut off the top.

     When three or four clusters of fruit have formed and some of the fruit is as large as a silver dollar prune the leaves at the base one half. This hastens ripening.
     Once a month apply a little commercial fertilizer* or compost around each plant. Avoid the use of fresh or unrotted manure as this produces too much leaf growth, the fruit does not set and disease is encouraged.

drawing of tomato plant staked and tied.

Fig. 20––A tomato plant should be tied with a strip of cloth, at a height of ten inches, again at about 26 inches. The plant here pictured is a good one from which to save seed.


     For early spring, plant 1/4 ounce of seed to 50 feet of row, sowing them 1/2 inch deep, in rows 1 foot or more apart. For fall crop 1/4 ounce of seed to 50 feet of row, 1/4 inch deep, or make the rows 8 to 10 inches wide and scatter seeds thinly in broad rows.

Vegetable Marrow

     Plant 6 or 8 seed to a hill, one inch deep, in hills 8 to 9 feet apart. Thin to 2 plants to hill. Give the same care as for pumpkins. The young and tender vegetable marrow may be baked whole like sweet potatoes or may be sliced and fried like eggplant, or boiled like summer squash.


     Plant 1 inch deep, 8 or 10 seed to each hill, the hills 10 feet apart. Later thin to 2 plants to each hill.
     Watermelons require much room and are not recommended for small gardens.

* [ed. note] see Mulch, Intensive and Lazy Gardening Books for alternative methods of preparing the soil and planting.

"Carrots Love Tomatoes" is a good reference for companion planting - which plants like to be planted closer to each other and which ones do not like each other.

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