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The War Garden Victorious - Appendix 1
Victory Edition 1919 WAR GARDENING and Home Storage of Vegetables





How the National War Garden Commission Came into Being


The Story of the War Garden


How War Gardens Helped


Types of War Gardens


Uncle Sam's First War Garden


How Big Business Helped


How the Railroads Helped


The Army of School Gardeners


Community Gardening


Cooperation in Gardening


War Gardens as City Assets


The Part Played by Daylight Saving


The Future of War Gardening


Conserving the Garden Surplus


Community Conservation


Conservation by Drying


Why We Should Use Dried Foods


The Future of Dehydration


Cooperation of the Press
  Chapter 19 - Cartoon Illustrations


  "War Gardening,"
Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

  "Home Canning and Drying," Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

Color Plates

  Sow the Seeds of Victory - Every Garden a Munition PlantWILL YOU HAVE A PART IN VICTORY?

"Every Garden a Munition Plant"

James Montgomery Flagg

  War Garden Victorious Poster - War Gardens Over The TopA Poster Spreading the Idea of Militant War Gardens

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Every Garden a Peace PlantA Poster for 1919, Symbolic of Victory

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Can Vegetables, Fruits and the Kaiser tooCAN VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND THE KAISER TOO

J. Paul Verrees

A Poster Which Was Used in 1918, and Which, Amended–Following Germany's Defeat–Was Also Forceful in 1919



  We can can vegetables, fruti and the Kaiser too We can can Vegetables Fruit and the Kaiser too



page 13*

Sweet Potatoes

     Sweet potatoes are grown mostly in the Southern States or where there is warm, sandy soil, and are not especially recommended for the home garden. If space permits a few plants may be grown.
     If you wish to grow your own plants start a hotbed about six weeks before apple-blossom time. Place 5 or 6 inches of sand over the manure in the hotbed and lay down small, healthy sweet potatoes, close together but not touching. Cover them with one or two inches of sand; water occasionally to keep slightly moist. Sprouts will soon begin to grow and immediately send out roots into the sand. When these sprouts are four or more inches long they may be pulled from the potatoes and are rooted and ready to be planted. They need not be pulled, however, until time to plant them in the garden, when all danger of frost is past. They should be set 14 inches apart. If only a few plants are wanted they should be purchased from a seedsman, as the trouble involved in growing them in small quantities is too great to make it worth while.
     On land which is not thoroughly drained the plants should be set on ridges and these should be made broad, as narrow ridges will dry out too rapidly. The ridges should be maintained during the entire growing season.
     Sweet potatoes should be dug when the soil is dry and the weather bright, before there is danger of hard frosts. A spading fork may be used in digging them. Guard against bruising or injuring them in digging and handling. Let the roots lie out to dry for two or three hours after digging.


     Use strong plants two years old, which may be purchased from seedsmen. Set them 18 inches apart, in rows 3 feet apart. The rows should be 8 to 10 inches deep, with width of 6 to 8 inches at bottom After spreading out rots cover crowns with 2 inches of soil. With the growth of the shoots gradually fill in with earth until level with surface. Careful cultivation is required during the season. A small bed heavily manured will furnish plants for 2 or 3 persons.


     Beans form a staple crop which may be raised in almost every climate. They need a rich soil which holds moisture, but is well drained. Frequent shallow cultivation must be given and they must be kept growing with out a check until harvested. Never cultivate while moisture is on vines.
     Beans are susceptible to cold and for sure results they should not be planted until danger of frost is past. So little trouble is involved in bean planting, however, that it is a good plan to take a chance on making the first planting as soon as the ground is reasonably warm. If the first planting should be killed by frost there is a good chance that the second will come up and that it will mature early. In this way a crop will be assured early enough to make it worth while to take the small risk involved in the possible loss of the early planting.
     dry shell beans are planted and treated the same as string beans are planted and treated. The beans are allowed to mature in the pods. They should be thoroughly dried, shelled and stored as directed for storage of seed on page 32.
     String and lima beans are grown alike. There are two sorts of each––low bush vines and bean vines that climb poles. Pole beans are best for small gardens.
     Plant beans and bush limas 1 inch deep, 4 to 6 inches apart in rows.
     Make successive plantings every ten days until hot weather. In late summer make successive plantings of string beans until eight weeks before the usual time of first frost.
     Plant pole beans and pole limas in hills 1 inch deep, 4 seeds to hill, hills 3 feet apart. Thin to 2 plants to the hill. Before planting fix firmly in each hill a pole 5 to 6 feet long. If desired have two rows of hills and slant the poles so that each set of 4 may be tied together at the top like an Indian teepee. This prevents the poles from falling, but reduces the yield of the vines.
     Help the vines to start twining around the poles from right to left. Note: Plant lima beans with the "eyes" of the seed downward.

drawing of lima bean vine on pole

Fig. 16––Lima bean vine on pole.


     Sow seed rather thickly in row, using 1 oz. to 50 feet, but thin the young plants by pulling until the survivors are 4 inches apart. The pulled plants make fine greens for cooking or canning.

* [ed. note] see Mulch, Intensive and Lazy Gardening Books for alternative methods of preparing the soil and planting.

"Carrots Love Tomatoes" is a good reference for companion planting - which plants like to be planted closer to each other and which ones do not like each other.

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