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The War Garden Victorious - Appendix 1
Victory Edition 1919 WAR GARDENING and Home Storage of Vegetables


CONTENTS

 

Title

I.

How the National War Garden Commission Came into Being

II.

The Story of the War Garden

III.

How War Gardens Helped

IV.

Types of War Gardens

V.

Uncle Sam's First War Garden

VI.

How Big Business Helped

VII.

How the Railroads Helped

VIII.

The Army of School Gardeners

IX.

Community Gardening

X.

Cooperation in Gardening

XI.

War Gardens as City Assets

XII.

The Part Played by Daylight Saving

XIII.

The Future of War Gardening

XIV.

Conserving the Garden Surplus

XV.

Community Conservation

XVI.

Conservation by Drying

XVII.

Why We Should Use Dried Foods

XVIII.

The Future of Dehydration

XIX.

Cooperation of the Press
  Chapter 19 - Cartoon Illustrations
   
 

APPENDIX

  "War Gardening,"
Victory Edition, 1919
INDEX
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

 
  "Home Canning and Drying," Victory Edition, 1919
INDEX
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back
 
 


Color Plates

  Sow the Seeds of Victory - Every Garden a Munition PlantWILL YOU HAVE A PART IN VICTORY?

"Every Garden a Munition Plant"

James Montgomery Flagg


  War Garden Victorious Poster - War Gardens Over The TopA Poster Spreading the Idea of Militant War Gardens

Maginel Wright Enright


  War Garden Victorious Poster - Every Garden a Peace PlantA Poster for 1919, Symbolic of Victory

Maginel Wright Enright


  War Garden Victorious Poster - Can Vegetables, Fruits and the Kaiser tooCAN VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND THE KAISER TOO

J. Paul Verrees

A Poster Which Was Used in 1918, and Which, Amended芳ollowing Germany's Defeat妨as Also Forceful in 1919

   
 

OTHER POSTERS

  We can can vegetables, fruti and the Kaiser too We can can Vegetables Fruit and the Kaiser too

 

 

page 11

drawing of beans planted at pr0per depth

Fig. 11末Beans planted at proper depth.

FOR CONTINUOUS CROPS

     With some of the important vegetables a series of plantings is desirable. Of string beans, lettuce, radishes, spinach, sweet corn, peas, beets and carrots there should be several successive plantings, two or three weeks apart, to provide a fresh and continuous supply all season.

DEPTH OF PLANTING*

     Do not plant too deeply. The old rule is to plant to a depth of 5 times the thickness of the seed. This, however, is not an absolute rule and is not safe in all cases. Consult planting table on page 23 for depth.

HOEING

     When the green rows appear it is time to start hoeing or cultivating. Never hoe or cultivate deeply末an inch or two is deep enough末but stir the ground frequently, and always after rain or watering, as soon as it is dry enough. The hoeing must not be done after rain or watering when the ground is still so wet as to cause the muddy earth to pack like cement, as this causes the earth to cake and dry out altogether too rapidly, which is undesirable.
     Frequent hoeing causes the formation of a dust layer which prevents the soil underneath from drying out. The garden should always be kept free from weeds, as these, if permitted to grow, consume plant food and moisture needed by the plants.

drawing of depth to plant potatoes

Fig. 13末A small potato planted whole. The depth of planting here shown is approximately 4-1/2 inches to the center of the potato. This is the depth for late potatoes. Early potatoes are planted 2 inches nearer surface of ground.

drawing of lima beans planted properly with eyes down

Fig. 12末Lima beans, planted properly, with eyes down.

WATERING

     A plentiful supply of moisture is essential. If there is not sufficient rainfall the moisture should be provided by watering the garden. In doing this it is better to soak the ground once a week than to sprinkle every day. Late afternoon is the best time to sprinkle.

     To moisten the surface is not enough. There must be a thorough wetting. If pipe connections are available a garden hose is the best means of watering. One of the most satisfactory methods is to open small furrows between rows and allow water to run into these trenches, raking the earth back into place several hours later and making a mulch, after the water has thoroughly soaked in. The sprinkling pot will serve if hose is not available, but is is more laborious. Overhead sprinklers are very satisfactory. They consist of pipes mounted on supports extending the length of the area to be watered. Holes are drilled at intervals of 3 to 4 feet and small nozzles are inserted which yield a spray-like misty rain when the water is turned on. By turning the pipes and also changing the position of them it is possible to water an area of any size.
     In home gardens proper drainage is often disregarded. Drainage improves the soil by allowing air to enter; by raising the temperature of the soil; by rendering the soil more porous and granular; by enabling the roots of plants to grow deeply into the soil and by allowing earlier cultivation in the spring.
     Blind ditches, partly filled with stones or other material covered with soil, or open ditches, will be found satisfactory for the home garden. They should be along the lowest level of the garden, and have suitable outlet. Lacking an outlet, lay tile 12 inches below surface of garden, slanting toward a hole 10 feet deep and 5 feet across, in center of garden. Fill this, two thirds to top, with stones, covering stones with clay and covering the clay with loam.

* [ed. note] see Mulch, Intensive and Lazy Gardening Books for alternative methods of preparing the soil and planting.

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