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The War Garden Victorious - Appendix 1
Victory Edition 1919 WAR GARDENING and Home Storage of Vegetables





How the National War Garden Commission Came into Being


The Story of the War Garden


How War Gardens Helped


Types of War Gardens


Uncle Sam's First War Garden


How Big Business Helped


How the Railroads Helped


The Army of School Gardeners


Community Gardening


Cooperation in Gardening


War Gardens as City Assets


The Part Played by Daylight Saving


The Future of War Gardening


Conserving the Garden Surplus


Community Conservation


Conservation by Drying


Why We Should Use Dried Foods


The Future of Dehydration


Cooperation of the Press
  Chapter 19 - Cartoon Illustrations


  "War Gardening,"
Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

  "Home Canning and Drying," Victory Edition, 1919
Cover / Letters / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21 / 22 / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 / 28 / 29 / 30 / 31 / 32
More Letters / Back

Color Plates

  Sow the Seeds of Victory - Every Garden a Munition PlantWILL YOU HAVE A PART IN VICTORY?

"Every Garden a Munition Plant"

James Montgomery Flagg

  War Garden Victorious Poster - War Gardens Over The TopA Poster Spreading the Idea of Militant War Gardens

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Every Garden a Peace PlantA Poster for 1919, Symbolic of Victory

Maginel Wright Enright

  War Garden Victorious Poster - Can Vegetables, Fruits and the Kaiser tooCAN VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND THE KAISER TOO

J. Paul Verrees

A Poster Which Was Used in 1918, and Which, Amended–Following Germany's Defeat–Was Also Forceful in 1919



  We can can vegetables, fruti and the Kaiser too We can can Vegetables Fruit and the Kaiser too



page 10


     When heavy frost are over, plant early peas, onion sets and seed, early potatoes, kale, lettuce and spinach. All of these will stand light freezing except potato plants, which should be covered with dirt when frost threatens.
     When frosts are about over plant radishes, parsnips, carrots, beets, late peas and early sweet corn, and set out cabbage and cauliflower plants. (An old and useful rule is to "plant corn when the oak leaves are the size of a squirrel's ear").
     When all frosts are over and apple trees are in bud, plant string beans and late sweet corn, and set out a few early tomato plants from the indoor boxes.
     When apple trees have finished blossoming plant cucumbers, melons, squashes, lima beans and set out the rest of the indoor plants.


     Plants for second crops may be raised in an outdoor seed bed occupying small space. These plants may be grown while the space allotted to them in the garden plan is still in use for earlier crops. The rows of seed are not spaced so closely as in boxes used inside the house. If the plants crowd each other too much some of them may be removed and transplanted to another part of the garden. The seed bed plan is useful for such crops as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, late cabbage and the like.


     It is well to plant a fall garden of some crops, for in spite of the risk of injury by early frost the changes are in favor of satisfactory results. There can be no absolute rule as to the time of planting. The probable time of the first frost in ach locality must be taken as a general guide. For planting in August, and possible even in early September, the following vegetables may be grown:

     When first frost may be expected between September 15 and September 25:
Lettuce, Spinach,, Turnips, Parsley, Multiplier Onions and Turnips. (Kale and Radishes may be risked.)
     When first frost may be expected between September 20 and October 5:
Kale, Lettuce, Parsley, Multiplier Onions, Radishes, Spinach and Turnips. Beets and Chard for greens.
     When first frost may be expected between October 15 and October 25:
Any of the vegetables mentioned in the preceding lists. (String beans may be risked.)


     Straight rows add to the garden's beauty and make cultivation easier. To make the rows straight stretch a stout string between stakes and follow it with the point of a hoe, with a wheel hoe, or with the end of the handle of the rake or hoe, to open up the row. The plan is suggested in Fig. 10

drawing of straight rows in vegetable garden

Fig. 10––Straight rows add to the beauty of the garden and are easier to cultivate. The simplest way to lay them off is to stretch a line between two stakes and mark row with a hoe, hoe handle or stick.


     Nature generously provides for more than one crop on the same soil. Vegetables which reach maturity early in the season should be followed by later crops of the same vegetable or by rotation of other kinds. Onions to be used green may be grown in rows which are to be occupied by late tomato plants, as a few of the onions may be removed to plant the tomatoes. Radishes mature early and as they are harvested the space may be used for cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and other plants. Many combinations of this kind may be made to good advantage.

* [ed. note] see Mulch, Intensive and Lazy Gardening Books for alternative methods of preparing the soil and planting.

"Carrots Love Tomatoes" is a good reference for companion planting - which plants like to be planted closer to each other and which ones do not like each other.

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