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Ministry of Agriculture Allotment & Garden Guide


Allotment and Garden Guide March 1945 page 3

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facsimile of page 3

March 1945

Page:
1 / 2 / 3 / 4

5 / 6 / 7 / 8

 

Ministry of Agriculture
Allotment & Garden Guides Index

January 1945

February 1945

March 1945

April 1945

May 1945

June 1945

July 1945

August 1945

September 1945

October 1945

November 1945

December 1945


The Allotment DVD
The delights of having an allotment. 15 programmes as seen on ITV. Suit new and established growers. Seasonal guide, top gardening tips, fascinating food facts and insights into what's really in those sheds! 

THE ALLOTMENT SERIES was first shown on ITV 1 West
 

Allotments UK and other related allotment links

 

 

    FEED SPRING CABBAGE In the January "Guide" it was recommended that out of the 42 lb. of "National Growmore Fertiliser"* that you might buy, you should set aside 2 lb. as a top dressing for spring cabbage. Or you can use sulphate of ammonia, applying it at the rate of one ounce per yard run. Lettuces and spinach would also benefit by a similar application. But keep the fertiliser off the leaves.

guides for estimating weight of fertiliser

  LIFT LEEKS If you grew leeks last season and need the land on which they stand, for other crops, lift the remaining plants and heel them in in a shady spot. In any case, it is not wise to leave leeks too long in their rows.

GETTING THE "ROOT" GROUND READY As soon as it becomes free, dig over the land you intend for your root crops. Leave it rough until you are ready to sow. In April you can break it down and lightly fork in a dressing of 1 lb. of "National Growmore Fertiliser" to every 10 square yards.

 

   

Now for SOWING & PLANTING**

         Some seeds are best sown in a seedbed––for instance cabbage, kales, sprouts, sprouting broccoli and leeks; others, such as the root crops and lettuces   are usually sown where they are to remain. As you may be sowing Brussels sprouts and leeks during March, let us first say something about
 

How to use a SEEDBED

    Here are the essential points:––

> Mark off a patch about 6 ft. by 4 ft. for a 200 square yard allotment or garden. Break down all lumps during a dry spell and remove any stones and all roots of grass or weeds.
> Make the soil firm by treading it as soon as it is dry enough not to stick to your boots. Don't stamp it down.
> Loosen top surface by lightly raking. Place short sticks to mark ends of rows, which should be 4 ft. long across the bed and 6 in. apart. Stretch line between sticks.
> Stand on a board so as not to tread ground too hard, and make shallow drill along line with label or stick.
> Sow an even single line of seed along bottom of drill. Cover seed lightly with soil. A good way is to shuffle slowly along with a foot on either side of the drill, and without raising the feet slide the soil back and lightly press it. On heavy soil you may find it easier to scatter fine soil into the drill instead. Rake lightly to finish.

 

drawing of seedbed and making a drill

   

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    * [ed. note] earthly pursuits urges everyone to avoid "artificials" (chemical fertilizers) if possible and practice sustainable, organic gardening.
             
    ** [ed. note] see Mulch, Intensive and Lazy Gardening Books for alternative methods of preparing the soil and planting.

"Carrots Love Tomatoes" is a good reference for companion planting - which plants like to be planted closer to each other and which ones do not like each other.