In the third year he should move them round
again––on plot A, the green vegetables; on plat B, the peas, beans, onions
and leeks; and on plot C, the potatoes and root crops. Then, in the fourth
year, he will begin the rotation all over again.
By this simple system you not only ensure that
the ground is kept in reasonably fertile condition all over, but it helps
you to gauge how much ground you should devote to the various kinds of
crops. The rotation can be worked equally well in the garden as on an
allotment, but in each case space must be left somewhere at one end (say, 6
foot wide) for the seed bed, marrow bed, compost heap and so on.
It is much easier to arrange a proper rotation when
starting from scratch; but even a garden that was worked last year could be
brought into line by remembering where your crops were last season and
trying to plant the appropriate vegetables this year to follow them up.
Crop rotation will help with liming, too, if your soil needs lime. It is a
good idea to lime each year that part of the plot that carried potatoes and
root vegetables the year before.
Now for the jobs you can do outdoors in
February, if the weather is "open" and the soil workable. Don't forget to
rake in a good general fertiliser, such as "National Growmore", a few days
before sowing or planting.