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Gardening
e-book:


 

Ministry of Agriculture Allotment & Garden Guide


 

Dig for Victory Allotment and Garden Guide November 1945 page 7

Click image for
facsimile of page 7

November 1945

Page:
1 / 2 / 3 / 4 /

5 / 6 / 7 / 8

 

Ministry of Agriculture
Allotment & Garden Guides Index

January 1945

February 1945

March 1945

April 1945

May 1945

June 1945

July 1945

August 1945

September 1945

October 1945

November 1945

December 1945


The Allotment DVD
The delights of having an allotment. 15 programmes as seen on ITV. Suit new and established growers. Seasonal guide, top gardening tips, fascinating food facts and insights into what's really in those sheds! 

THE ALLOTMENT SERIES was first shown on ITV 1 West
 

Allotments UK and other related allotment links

 

    WINTER SPRAYING*  
       Thorough spraying at the right times is probably the most important step you can take towards more and better fruit. Spraying in winter kills the eggs of Aphides (Greenfly), Apple Sucker, Red Spider, Capsid Bug and Winter Moths. Between the beginning of December and the end of January, you should spray your apples and pears, once, either with a tar-oil spray (1/2 pint tar-oil to 1 gallon water) if Aphides or Apple Sucker are the troublesome pests, or with Dinitrocresol petroleum oil (D.N.C. for short) if the other pests mentioned also need to be controlled. D.N.C. can be applied as late as the first half of March.
   With plums and damsons, spray as for apples up to the middle of January. Don't delay until after the end of January or the crop may be seriously affected. Spraying time for gooseberries is up to the middle of January and for blackcurrants up to the end of that month.
   So you will see that by choosing a date between early December and mid-January you could spray your apples, pears, plums, blackcrrants and gooseberries at one go.

cover nearby plants when spraying fruit trees

     Here are some important spraying points to bear in mind—

- Don't alter the proportions recommended for making up the sprays. Stronger mixtures may do more harm than good; weaker sprays may not be effective.
- Mix and strain all sprays thoroughly before use. A piece of coarse muslin makes a good strainer.
-  Spray thoroughly; every part of the tree or bush must be drenched, especially the twigs.
- Don't spray in the rain, when rain is likely, or during frosty or windy weather.
- Cover any vegetable crops under or near the trees, to prevent damage when using tar-oil or D.N.C. sprays; spring cabbages, for instance, are spoiled by the spray. Failing anything better, use newspapers.
- Take care not to damage flowering plants and hedges, especially your neighbour's, over the fence; if accidently sprayed, they should be thoroughly washed with clean water, using the garden hose before the spray has time to dry.
- Wash the spraying equipment after use.
- Don't make up more spray than you need for a day's work.
   The quantity of spray needed will of course, vary with the number and size of your trees and bushes. For fruit trees, here is a table showing the average quantities required according to the size of the tree—

 
   

spraying fruit trees

 
Diameter
of spread of tree

10-12 ft.
12-15 ft.
15-18 ft.
18-21 ft.
21-24 ft.

 


   No. of gallons of
   dilute wash per tree

          1
          1-1/2
          2-1/4
          3
          4

 

 
           For blackcurrants, gooseberries and other bush fruit, 1 gallon of spray will be enough for up to 10 bushes, according to size.
   Any form of syringe can be used for spraying, provided that you can reach every twig with it. Or you could use a stirrup and bucket pump of the A.R.P. variety, though you'll need two persons to work it. For really big trees, a barrow type of sprayer would be necessary.
 
    * earthly pursuits urges everyone to use non-toxic organic methods of pest control. Poisonous sprays may deter pests, but at what cost to you, your children and grandchildren, your pets, soil, air and water?  
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